MIKO Mei Fair puts a Thai grill in MiMi’s townhouse

The duck at MIKO Mei Fair is a Peking duck, roasted over apple wood, and it comes to the table in a Thai Panang curry. Upstairs, in the same Georgian house on Curzon Street, MiMi Mei Fair cooks Chinese. MIKO opened on the ground floor in April.

Thai cooking in MiMi’s townhouse

MIKO comes from LSL Capital, the company of Dinesh and Samyukta Nair, who also run Jamavar on Mount Street and MiMi upstairs. MiMi has three storeys of chinoiserie and Georgian rooms, built on the imagined travels of an empress. MIKO has 50 seats below them.

A booth for two in red leather under timber-framed panels of teal wallpaper printed with trees, with a glass wall lamp above a laid table

Timber-framed panels of teal wallpaper printed with dense trees, with an elongated glass and brass wall lamp hung with a red tassel at the centre

LSL Capital calls the new restaurant a lovechild of MiMi and KOYN Thai, and it brings over KOYN Thai’s best-loved dishes. The group calls it a natural evolution, built on the energy and generosity of Thai food.

Soonthorn Apaipat leads the kitchen, with a robata grill at its centre. His menu runs across Thailand, from the heat of Isaan in the north-east to the coconut curries of the south. The duck comes with roti, and beside it sit a yellow curry of blue swimmer crab and a massaman of lamb shank cooked for 12 hours.

Larb is dressed at the table, with a choice of minced meat seasoned with chilli, mint, lime and fish sauce. There is homemade Chiang Mai sausage to start, live native lobster in choo-chee sauce sold by weight, and a whole steamed seabass with chilli, garlic and lime.

Plates of spring rolls with chilli sauce, crisp fritters under herbs, and grilled skewers with raw vegetables, beside two cocktails, on a chevron-patterned table against red leather seating

A stoneware bowl of orange curry with slices of roast duck, peas and a basil leaf, beside a bowl of rice, a wooden spoon and a glass of red wine on a chevron-patterned table edged in brass

The tasting menu, Taste of MIKO, is for two or more: chicken satay with cashew sauce, black pepper crispy squid, a red prawn curry, beef pad see ew and a Thai spiced nut brittle. The cocktails take Thai flavours too. A Sabai Sabai mixes Mekong rum with kaffir lime and Thai basil, and a Thai chilli martini uses pickled chilli.

Teal panelling and the Peacock Room

The ground floor is a run of small rooms, laid out like a salon. Teal timber panelling, red leather booths and brass take their colours from Thailand, set inside a Georgian interior.

A small round table laid with glasses beside lacquered bamboo-style chairs, against pale green panelling and wallpaper hand-painted with trees and a pair of peacocks, lit by white flower-shaped sconces — The Peacock Room, papered in hand-painted chinoiserie.

A table laid for dinner with white bamboo-style chairs before a white fireplace banked with pink and red flowers, in a green-panelled room papered with painted peacocks and blossom, with a green velvet curtain at the door

The Peacock Room sits behind folding timber screens, papered in hand-painted chinoiserie with a peacock pattern, and seats eight. LSL Capital sees it as the room where the townhouse’s Thai and Chinese restaurants meet, which makes it the table to book for a small dinner. The semi-private Drawing Room seats 22.

Open Monday to Saturday from 12:00 to 14:30 and 17:30 to 22:30; Sunday from 12:00 to 15:00 and 17:30 to 22:00. Panang duck curry £30; Taste of MIKO £58 per person; lunch and dinner set menus from £25. A discretionary 12 per cent service charge and a £3 cover charge per person are added.

MIKO Mei Fair, 54 Curzon Street, Mayfair, London W1J 8PG.

MIKO Mei Fair puts a Thai grill in MiMi’s townhouse

Thai cooking in MiMi’s townhouse

Teal panelling and the Peacock Room

The Club.