Noble Rot Soho

Noble Rot took over the Greek Street townhouse that held the Gay Hussar for more than sixty years, the Hungarian dining room where post-war Labour did much of its plotting over goulash. The wine bar and restaurant arrived in September 2020, the third address from Dan Keeling and Mark Andrew, whose Noble Rot magazine and original Bloomsbury room made the case for wine as the point rather than the accompaniment. Dark wood panelling runs through the floors, murals of Soho's more disreputable characters line the banquettes, and the broadly French cooking exists to flatter one of the deepest by-the-glass lists in London.

Upstairs sits the private dining room, an intimate, air-conditioned space for up to ten beneath framed artwork of old Soho, its sash windows keeping the street at a discreet remove. It is the room that carries the building's history most plainly, and it suits a wine dinner, a milestone lunch or a closed-door celebration. The main restaurant can be arranged for larger groups on enquiry.