Fantômas

Fantômas is Chris Denney's neighbourhood restaurant at 300 King's Road, on the corner of Old Church Street in Chelsea. Denney made his name at 108 Garage and Fiend in Notting Hill, and here he works with George Bukhov-Weinstein and Ilya Demichev, the restaurateurs behind Goodman, Wild Tavern and Lita. The cooking is modern European with an eye on Asia and runs on coal and wood fire: sourdough focaccia with chicken liver parfait, crispy veal sweetbreads with bulgogi, and a cucumber and sake slushy before dessert.

The dining room seats 80 and pairs concrete pillars and textured plaster walls with white linen, woven lanterns and bentwood bistro chairs. At the front, an open kitchen with a wood-fired oven and a Josper grill faces the tables. A glass-fronted wine wall frames an alcove table for four, and the list gives particular attention to lesser-known New World producers. The cocktail bar sits at the front of the room.

The rear dining room is quieter. Its glass wall looks onto a planted terrace with a fire pit, and it can be curtained off for a large private dinner. There is also a private dining room for up to 18 with its own courtyard, and the house takes seated dinners and cocktail receptions.