ROVI

ROVI is the vegetable restaurant Yotam Ottolenghi opened on Wells Street in 2018, and the one in the group that reads least like a deli. Fermentation and live fire do the work: a charcoal grill runs along the open kitchen, preserving jars line the shelves, and the seasonal menu is built with small producers, local growers and the group's own kitchen garden at Wolves Lane in north London.

The room is a single bright ground floor with a racetrack bar at its centre, ringed with stools and hung with a suspended rack of glassware and jars. Banquettes run against walls of illuminated panels painted in loose black brushwork, and the same hand carries across the ceiling. It seats ninety, which makes it one of the few rooms in Fitzrovia that can take a large party without splitting it up.

Groups are taken at tables of up to twenty in the main room, and The Nook, the restaurant's semi-private area, holds twenty-four. The whole restaurant is offered for exclusive hire on request.