The Devonshire

Oisín Rogers and Charlie Carroll's Soho pub reopened on Denman Street in November 2023, on the site the Devonshire Arms had traded from since 1793, and has been one of the hardest tables in London to get since. Downstairs is real ale and bar snacks from the in-house butcher and bakery; upstairs, chef Ashley Palmer-Watts (formerly of The Fat Duck) runs the Ember Grill Room, cooking Scottish beef, Oban langoustines and Devon scallops over the wood fire. À la carte bookings open three weeks ahead, every Thursday morning.

A green-painted entrance on Sherwood Street leads up to four private dining rooms across two floors, decorated by Macaulay Sinclair with amber glass chandeliers and contemporary art. The Blue Room, an interconnecting third-floor suite, divides behind a solid wall into two smaller spaces, the Winehouse and the Lennon; the Bowie Room, a floor above, keeps its own red walls and vintage globe pendants. Feasting menus are served family style, with tableside crêpes suzette and steak tartare for those who want it.

Guests can start with drinks in the pub itself, watching the room through a one-way mirror before being walked up to their table, with a hatch through to the bar keeping the noise and energy close by. The roof terrace is walk-in only and not part of the private hire.